Claus Preisinger, Blaufrankisch Kalkstein 2023

The Blaufrankisch Kalkstein from Claus Preisinger is always more about precision than power. In this warm pocket of Burgenland, where summer heat can rival southern France, it’s remarkable how his wines never lose their composure. There is always that Preisinger signature of freshness and finesse.

Half of the grapes ferment as whole bunches, the other half is gently destemmed. Everything happens naturally in large wooden vats, followed by a soft press and ageing in neutral oak.

The wine opens slightly smoky, fresh and vivid with pure blueberry at first, almost like grown-up squash, before a rush of sour cherry and blood orange cuts through. With time in the glass this really opens up and shows it's dark side with some earthy tones, black olive, and mocha, grounding all that energy in something savoury. It is bright, tense and seriously drinkable. The kind of wine that gets under your skin in the best way possible.