Julian Haart, Piesporter Riesling 2023

If there’s one name in the Mosel that has gone from cult to legend in the space of a decade, it’s Julian Haart. A true Mosel native- his family’s roots in Piesport go back to the 14th century. Julian’s first love wasn’t wine but food. He trained in the kitchen under 3 Michelin Star chef Klaus Erfort before turning his full attention to Riesling. That same perfectionism and intensity he brought to the kitchen now define his wines.

Julian and his wife Nadine farm just five hectares of steep vineyards around Piesport, including some of the Mosel’s most prized parcels: Goldtropfchen, Ohligsberg, and Schubertslay, where ungrafted vines that are over 100 years old still cling to the slate. Everything here is done on a human scale, without shortcuts- selective hand harvests, spontaneous fermentations and long lees aging. This is the kind of work where every decision shows in the glass.

The wines themselves are as uncompromising as their farmer: taut, slate-driven and wildly precise. Julian has become something of a Kabinett specialist, elevating this once-overlooked style into a whole new benchmark for clarity and finesse. Alongside the Pradikat wines are his dry and somewhat dry tasting “terroir” bottlings, which move up the ladder from simple Mosel expressions to Grand Cru like parcels.

Despite the global demand getting off the chart, Julian keeps his prices fair and his scale small. For him, it’s not about luxury or status but about staying true to the vineyards and the region. That balance of humility, intensity, and raw talent is what makes Julian Haart one of the defining voices of modern Mosel Riesling. True wines of consequence and of extraordinary beauty.